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An advertisement from China for soup with brain meat.

In Defense of Eating Brains

While some in the West are squeamish, globally, it's more common than not.
First Lady Grace Coolidge with the racoon that was meant to be dinner.

Why President Coolidge Never Ate His Thanksgiving Raccoon

A tradition as American as apple pie, and older than the Constitution.
Drawing of a turkey-shaped brown blob on a platter with worried people peering across the table at it.

A Delicious History of “Meatless Meat”

Non-meat proteins have a long history – and are looking more like the necessary food of the future.

The Troubled History of Horse Meat in America

The White House wants to reinstate the sale of horses for slaughter, but eating horse meat has always been politically treacherous.
A drawing of a hippopotamus with its mouth open wide.

American Hippopotamus

A bracing and eccentric epic of espionage and hippos.

Is Corned Beef Really Irish?

The rise and fall and rise of the traditional St. Patrick's Day meal.
Thanksgiving card featuring a turkey with a carving knife and fork in its back.

Talking Turkey

A conversation with food historian Andrew F. Smith on his new book, "The Turkey: An American Story."
Trump at the debate in Philadelphia.

Why Republican Politicians Keep Claiming Immigrants Eat Cats and Dogs

"They’re eating the pets of the people that live there," former President Trump claimed — with no basis — at the first presidential debate.
Chickens and eggs.

The Unending Quest To Build A Better Chicken

Maybe what we need is not just a new form of poultry farming but a complete revolution in how we relate to meat.
Hippo in a cowboy hat grazing on a newspaper article about hippo ranching.

How the U.S. Almost Became a Nation of Hippo Ranchers

In 1910, a failed House bill sought to increase the availability of low-cost meat by importing hippopotamuses that would be killed to make "lake cow bacon."
Collage of meat products emerging from Pat Buchanan's head.

How Food Became a Weapon in The Right’s Culture Wars

First came the politics of right-wing grievance. Then came the new foodie culture. Together, they combined to create one toxic food fight.
Sean Sherman, a co-owner of Owamni restaurant.

How Owamni Became the Best New Restaurant in the United States

In this modern Indigenous kitchen, every dish is made without any ingredient introduced to the continent after Europeans arrived.
A juke joint on the circuit in Clarksdale, Mississippi, 1939

Inside the ‘Chitlin Circuit,’ a Jim Crow-Era Safe Space for Black Performers

It's where legends like Tina Turner and Ray Charles launched their careers.
Vintage homepathic medicines

In the 1800s, Valentine’s Meant a Bottle of Meat Juice

An act of love in the form of a medicinal tonic.
WWII Advertisement that highlights price controls.

Price Controls, Black Markets, And Skimpflation: The WWII Battle Against Inflation

To control inflation during WWII, the U.S. government resorted to wide-ranging price controls. Unintended consequences may be the reason they aren't used today.
Fast food with the seal of the president on the containers.

How the State Created Fast Food

Because of consistent government intervention in the industry, we might call fast food the quintessential cuisine of global capitalism.
Falling apart neon sign for Lotus Chop Suey, a restaurant in Chicago

The Hidden, Magnificent History of Chop Suey

Discrimination and mistranslation have long obscured the dish's true origins.
Still Life with Ham, 1625.

Thanksgiving and the Curse of Ham

19th-century African American writer Charles Chesnutt’s subversive literature.
Gold-spangled Polish chickens.

Fancy Fowl

How an evil sea captain and a beloved queen made the world crave KFC.
Photograph of Prince's Hot Chicken restaurant superimposed over a photograph of an empty shopping center

Notes on Hot Chicken, Race, and Culinary Crossover

How does Black food go viral among white folks?

When Did Cheap Meat Become an “Essential” American Value?

Keeping meat production moving during the pandemic is dangerous. But history shows that there’s little Americans won’t sacrifice for a cheap steak.
Popeye's chicken sandwich meal.
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Why Popeyes Markets Its Chicken Sandwich to African Americans

Popeyes has long cultivated a black customer base — which has positive and negative ramifications.

Mass Barbecue is the Invasive Species of Our Culinary Times

There's room for the haute and folk traditions but the market-driven style taking over is the most problematic.

The Government Taste Testers Who Reshaped America’s Diet

In the 1930s, a forgotten federal bureau experimented with ways to make soy and other products more popular in the U.S.

The Price of Meat

America’s obsession with beef was born of conquest and exploitation.

The Price of Plenty: How Beef Changed America

Exploitation and predatory pricing drove the transformation of the beef industry – and created the model for modern agribusiness.
The poison squad, experimenters that tried poisons and studied their effects, drawn as men in suits striking dramatic poses.

Food Used to Be a Lot More Dangerous

Before the establishment of the modern FDA, anti-regulation attitudes ruled the world of food.
1800s advertisement for oil stoves.

When Cow Tongue Was an Essential Thanksgiving Ingredient

It made American pies rich and indulgent.

When Salad Was Manly

Esquire, 1940: “Salads are really the man’s department... Only a man can make a perfect salad.”

The Hamburger: An American Lyric

How hamburgers became a staple of the American diet.

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